Yakitori

Skewered grilled chicken served with beer at smoky street-side stalls

Yakitori -- skewers of chicken grilled over charcoal -- is one of Japan's great drinking foods. You will find yakitori-ya everywhere, from tiny stalls under the train tracks to proper sit-down restaurants. The best places use binchotan charcoal, which burns clean and hot.

Most menus offer every part of the bird: thigh (momo), breast (mune), skin (kawa), cartilage (nankotsu), heart (hatsu), and liver (reba). You choose between tare (a sweet soy glaze) or shio (just salt). If you are new to it, start with momo and negima (thigh with leek) in tare, then branch out. The salt preparations let the char and meat flavour come through more clearly.

Yakitori pairs with cold beer or a highball (whisky and soda), though some places have surprisingly good sake lists. Expect to order several rounds of skewers over the course of an evening -- two or three at a time is the usual rhythm.

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