Kagbeni (2,807m) is a walled medieval village at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong Khola rivers, a few hours' walk north of Jomsom. It is one of the most atmospheric settlements in Nepal: a tight labyrinth of mud-walled alleys, carved wooden doorways, and flat-roofed houses all compressed within a fortified perimeter. A 16th-century red-painted gompa rises above the roofline, its interior painted with old murals. The village still functions as a living community — children play in the lanes, irrigation channels run between houses, and the sound of monks chanting carries across the rooftops at dawn.
The town is both the last freely accessible settlement on the Mustang trail and a significant destination in its own right. The main bazaar has several guesthouses and restaurants catering to both Annapurna Circuit trekkers and Upper Mustang permit-holders. The local apple brandy (and apple cider and apple pie) is famous along the whole circuit — the Mustang valley produces apples of exceptional quality in this arid, high-altitude environment.
The walk from Kagbeni back south to Jomsom along the Kali Gandaki floor is flat and fast, taking about two hours. In the afternoon, powerful winds funnel up the valley, so most walkers leave Kagbeni early.