El Tunco
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El Tunco

El Tunco

El Salvador's surf town — two streets, black sand, and a right-hander that breaks all year.

Two streets of board hire, pupusa stands and bars, ending at a black-sand beach with a rock shaped like a pig lying offshore — that is El Tunco, and it is where most people who come to El Salvador to surf end up sleeping. The wave in front of town is a right-hand point over rock and cobble that works nearly year-round, best on the mid to high tide, and it gets crowded because it is the most accessible good wave on the coast.

It is a small place with an outsized weekend. Midweek it is surfers, coffee and not much else; from Friday night the bars fill with people out from San Salvador, forty minutes away, and the music runs late. If that is not what you want, El Zonte ten minutes west is quieter, and the serious wave — Punta Roca — is at La Libertad in the other direction.

Beginners are well served: the beach break at the western end is forgiving, boards rent by the hour on every corner, and lessons are cheap and plentiful. Experienced surfers should know that the take-off is over rock, not sand, and reef booties are not a bad idea.

The sunsets are the other reason people stay longer than they planned. The coast faces due west, and the whole town walks down to the rocks for it.

Guide

Activities

El Tunco exists for the surf. The wave in front of town is a right-hand point over rock and cobble, working most of the year and best from mid to high tide; the beach break at the western end is where lessons happen. Boards rent by the hour from half a dozen shops on the two streets, and an instructor for a morning costs less than a good dinner in most countries.

This is also the easiest base in El Salvador for everything inland. The country is small enough that the Santa Ana crater, the Ruta de las Flores and Suchitoto are all day trips from the beach, and the operators here sell exactly that.

The serious wave is Punta Roca at La Libertad, fifteen minutes east — a long, fast right that draws competition surfers, over a shallow rock shelf. It is not the place to take a first lesson.