Juayúa sits in the middle of the Ruta de las Flores, a coffee town of about 20,000 people under the Santa Ana massif, and on Saturdays and Sundays its main square turns into the feria gastronómica — the food fair that has been running since the 1990s and is, on its day, the best eating in the country. Grilled rabbit, iguana for the brave, frogs' legs, paella, and every kind of pupusa, cooked in the open by dozens of stalls.
The rest of the week it is a quiet place with a black Christ in the church — the Cristo Negro, carved in the sixteenth century and the object of a January pilgrimage — and coffee fincas on the slopes above.
What brings people beyond the food is the walk to Los Chorros de la Calera, a set of waterfalls in the gorge twenty minutes out of town where the water comes straight out of the rock face into pools you can swim in. Go with a guide: the path crosses private coffee land and there have been robberies on it, which the town's own guides will tell you plainly.