Most people come to Copán for one morning at the ruins and leave the same afternoon, which is a shame — the valley behind the town is coffee country, and the things to do here are mostly agricultural or on horseback rather than archaeological.
Guides for the archaeological site itself are hired at the entrance rather than booked ahead, and the official guides there are worth the fee: the stelae and the hieroglyphic stairway are close to meaningless without one. What the operators in town add is everything else — the farms, the hills, the hot springs up the valley at Luna Jaguar.