Negril is two places. Seven Mile Beach on the north side is the long sand strip — swimming, jet skis, boat trips, and the sunset everybody comes out for. The West End cliffs to the south have no beach at all: the limestone drops straight into deep clear water, and what happens there is cliff jumping, snorkelling off ladders, and drinking at Rick's Café while other people jump.
The diving is shallow and warm, which makes this a cheap place to learn. The reef has been hit repeatedly by bleaching and storms and is not what the old photographs show — the cliff sites, with their caverns and swim-throughs, hold up better than the flat reef.
Boat trips run west to Booby Cay off the north point, and the sunset cruise is a Negril institution that is exactly as advertised.