Atetelco is one of the residential compounds in the west of the city, a kilometre's walk from the Pyramid of the Sun and so usually well off the tour-bus route. It rewards the effort: a series of small patios, doorways, and interior rooms preserve murals showing jaguars and coyotes alternating with armed warriors. The compound is read as a military quarter of the city.
The murals are quietly stunning — bold red and white outlines on cream walls, individual cats striding across the plaster as if the pigments had dried last week. Combine with the neighbouring residential complexes of Tetitla and Zacuala for a half-morning. Bring water; the walk back to the main site is long and exposed.