Portree is the capital of Skye and its only real town — about 2,300 people around a deep harbour fringed by cliffs, with a row of pink, blue and white houses along the quay that ends up on every postcard of the island. It isn't a ferry port today, but the harbour has seen plenty of traffic: fishing boats, emigrant ships bound for America, and in 1746 the naval patrols hunting Bonnie Prince Charlie, who slipped through town under their noses. The Royal Hotel stands on the site of MacNab's Inn, where he said goodbye to Flora MacDonald.
Almost everything is within five minutes' walk of Somerled Square, the bus stand at the top of the town. Below it, Quay Brae drops to the harbour and its pier, designed by Thomas Telford. The wooded headland on the south side is The Lump, with a little folly tower to climb and the Skye Highland Games every August. Gaelic is still spoken by more than a third of the town.
Portree's real job is as a base. The A855 runs north past the Old Man of Storr to Staffin and the Quiraing; the A87 heads south to Sligachan and the Cuillin, and west towards Dunvegan. Buses go all of these ways, but not often — a car makes a huge difference.
Be warned that Portree is the busiest place on Skye. In July and August the restaurants and B&Bs are full and you may queue for fish and chips on the quay. Book ahead, or come in May or September when the light is just as good and the town breathes again.